View from the Top

( I tried to include this photo on my last blog posting but I am still have not mastered the Blog Tools. )

This was our view of our city and the surrounding hills once we completed our hike. It is really beautiful country. The monument seen rising in the distance was built to commemorate 50 years of Armenia belonging to the Soviet Union.

Surrounded by Beauty

So last weekend was the perfect day for a Fall Hike. The sun was out just enough to filter through the trees and highlight the brown leaves on the ground. But fortunately for those of us who do not have access to Gold's Gym, it was not so hot as to further challenge our conditioning.

I will definitely need to post these photos on my Screen Saver once we start into the next season Mother Nature has to offer, which is coming soon they tell me. Not having seen a real winter for 30 years, I will need a "light at the end of the tunnel" .......a tunnel that is supposed to be 5 months long.

My daughter Meghan recently mailed a half-dozen books my way, a birthday present that will provide enjoyment for many winter nights. I have been told it's not the temperature alone is really the problem. (For I do recall my winters in Indiana, Wisconsin and Minnesota.) Rather it is the absence or limited presence of central heating I am told presents the biggest challenge. In the Midwest there was something wonderful about a fireplace and warming up after a chilly day. While I know it is foolish to "borrow trouble from the future," I heard too many stories from last year's Volunteers that the chill didn't leave their bones for months at a time. I am beginning to understand why some Volunteers found Egypt a wonderful place to visit in ......February or March!

The Garbage and the Flowers

Sometimes in reading the replies from friends to my Blog site, I get the impression that only the Romantic side of my journey is coming through. There is much that is problematic and difficult here but I guess I feel it does little good to dwell on it. But when I was walking home one day this week, I was struck by the stark contrasts in this country: I could stand IN ONE PLACE and get such different pictures! As I stood at the bottom of my street (which in my Midwest childhood, we might call an alley) and looked UP the street and then BACK DOWN the sidewalk from which I had just walked. The visual contrast was so startling that I decided to take photos of it.

When a group of us were traveling in India about this same time last year, we met with a similar experience: the striking beauty and the stark realities of the 3rd World. For those of us who were old enough to remember the Leonard Cohen song from the 70's, Suzanne, these lyrics came to mind.............and she shows you where to look among the garbage and the flowers. I guess that is a choice we get to make every day but sometimes that choice is just more obvious.

The Spirit of a People

It wasn't but a couple days after I posted the photos of my masonry friends finishing the top of the wall lining the river that a huge storm hit the area.  All the dirt they had piled up for their work unfortunately diverted the water coming down the road behind the wall.....and that whole section of the wall tipped over into the river.  Like true construction people, they were back at it the next day, pulling the old wall out of the river and starting over.  

I don't supposed William Faulkner is required reading in Armenian schools but the people surely embody one of his reflections on man:  I believe that man will not merely endure.  He will prevail.  He is immortal, not because he alone among creatures has an inexhaustible voice, but because he has a soul, a spirit capable of compassion and sacrifice and endurance.  After 600 years of being ruled by other conquering nations,  one outstanding aspect of Armenia's national character is endurance.  I have a feeling that over the next couple years Americans will have the opportunity, if that's the right word, to grow in this attribute as well.

When I watched the workers slowly re-build the fallen river wall day-by-day, I was reminded of my earlier visit to a local Medieval monastery.  Talk about patience.....I don't know if my photo will show it but these particular building blocks are numbered from 1 to 16 as they work to stablize the foundation of this 12th Century structure.   You can also see the photos of the worker as he moves the blocks....one-at-a-time on a wooden skid back to their original location. 

In addition to the structural work, the construction project involved upgrading the infrastructure leading up the hill to the monastery so that tourists had better access: paved road, electricity, and gas/water lines.  Even more amazing to me was the billboard highlighting this million dollar project, indicating that the funding was sponsored by the Ruler of Sharjah, a member of the Arab Emirates.  In a time of so  much religious and ethnic conflict, I could not help but find hope in an Islamic leader helping to preserve a Christian monastery.

It was a sunny day a couple weeks ago and I felt ambitious... so I decided to explore the surrounding hills.  You can get some sense of how the village is laid out and the road leading into town.  If you look closely at the bottom of the other picture, you can see the top of a metal statue honoring the Armenian soldiers who died fighting against Germany in WWII.  I am hoping that we have one more good hiking day left on the calendar as 6 of us are going out together on a hike in the forest.  We have been in the Off/On rainy mode the past couple weeks so I am hoping Mother Nature smiles on us.  And if it rains, I am sure we will have a different kind of adventure.  I hired a young man who worked as a guide this summer to take us around as the trails are not well-marked.  One of my "Tourist Business" goals over the next 2 years is to create some hiking maps that we can hand out to tourists.  I have talked to several tourists who came to see the natural beauty of this area and left early frustrated that they could not locate the hiking trails.  With the challenges of today's Post-Soviet economy, we really can't afford to have those tourist dollars leave early.  Getting the trails marked and then finding the funds to print the maps should keep me busy for a while!