Last weekend a new Peace Corps Volunteers from another village stayed at my apartment. His sense of discouragement after the first four months in his village was truly déjà vu. He came to
This past spring I become involved with a youth development program. And then my Armenian tutor introduced me to some other young adults wanting to improve their English skills in the hopes of finding a better job . . . and maybe even a better life. I also helped her tutor a couple high school seniors preparing for their college entrance exam in English. By the time summer ended, I was ready to find more full-time work at a local K-12 school.
My hopes were high as the director of my Non-Profit agreed to introduce me to his buddy who was the Principal of the one of the four schools in town. I was excited to "be doing something" again, a favorite American pastime. And the students seemed enthused and excited to have a new face in the room, to do something besides rote memory. My only concern was my fellow teacher. She seemed to be pretty set in her ways. I had been told that English teachers in Armenia made half their money outside the classroom with tutoring. I had been warned not to speak better English than her which might threaten her image.
Well, after a couple days of working at the new school, my NGO Director stuck his head in my office and said in a dead-panned voice: "Your teaching assignment is now complete. The kids were too noisy." He then walked away. I was stunned not just by the rather cryptic method of communication but the fact that the "problem" had never even been discussed. I decided that I was now living in the Post-Soviet world. Otherwise, I might have gotten an invitation to a train ride to a labor camp in
But then the country’s fears around the Swine Flu stepped in. The Armenian Ministry of Health decided to close all the schools in the country for a month until mid-January. While there had been less than fifty cases in
So this morning seemed like a good time to regain my perspective for the holidays. I had no place to go so I grabbed my camera and started off on a tour of my street. It was perfect that one of our two local busses would appear. In my experience the bus drivers are the backbone of normal life for our village, especially in the coming weeks when the snow becomes an issue. In a country where “punctuality” is hard to find, one cannot but be impressed by their reliability. Each of the drivers goes from one end of the village to the other all day long. You "can set your watch" (if I still had one) by their arrival on the half-hour. And like two hands of a clock they tend to cross at the same place in the middle of town. And then there is the community aspect of taking the bus. The busses have seating for 20 passengers and yet every morning they arrive at my bus stop with 40 adults and students already packed in. Even as an American, you can't help but feel like part of the community as they figure out how to make you the 41st person wedged into the back of the bus.
Once the bus had pulled away, I noticed a couple of my favorite people in the village: the ladies who sweep the curbs of the streets everyday with their traditional home-made brooms. Somehow for me they represent the part of
But this morning as I continued the walk along my street, I passed a handful of storefronts where residents sell a variety of fresh vegetables and fruits in front of their houses. Some have even built a little room in front and added a window for transactions so they could include a small sampling of packaged goods and ever present convenience items like cigarettes and phone cards. Our daily interactions are limited (by my language skills) but sweet. It takes just a simple greeting or a friendly word to bring a smile to their faces. Sometimes we might even share a reflection on the snow that we both know is coming soon. But today our butcher had his axe out so I kept moving.
It’s a simple life they live and one I share with them on some level. Their joys and hopes are simple and tightly bound up with their families. Not much will happen this week despite the fact that this Friday is the 25th. This week is one of preparation for the New Year, Nor Tari. The New Years is not about champagne and
Enjoy your holidays.......... and your Families!